12 Best Tips on How To Store A Lawn Mower Properly
Storing your lawn mower correctly is one of the most important things you can do to extend its life and keep it running well. Most people do not realize that improper storage can lead to clogged carburetors, rusted blades, and batteries that will not hold a charge. Learning How Often Should You Mow is important for a healthy lawn, but knowing how to put your equipment away between mows is just as critical for maintaining that health. If you store a mower without proper preparation, you risk needing expensive repairs or a replacement well before its time. This guide covers twelve specific, actionable tips to prepare your mower for short-term breaks and long winter months, ensuring it starts easily whenever you need it again.
Why Preparing Your Lawn Mower for Storage Is So Important
Many people finish the last mow of the season and simply push the mower into the back corner of the garage or shed. That approach often leads to problems when spring arrives. A machine that ran perfectly in October can refuse to start in April. The main reason is that modern gasoline starts to break down and varnish within a few weeks. That sticky residue clogs small fuel passages in the carburetor.
Beyond fuel issues, moisture is a constant enemy. Condensation forms on metal parts, especially when temperatures fluctuate. This moisture creates rust on the cutting deck and dulls the blade. A proper lawn mower storage routine addresses each of these threats directly. Taking an hour before putting your equipment away saves you the frustration and repair costs later. It is a simple form of insurance for your equipment investment.
Tip 1: Run the Mower to Dry It Out Before Cleaning
A good storage routine starts right after your final mow. Do not turn the mower off and push it immediately into storage. Instead, let the engine run for a few minutes to blow off loose debris. This simple step makes the cleaning process much easier.
Running the engine also heats up the underside of the deck, which helps dry any clinging wet grass clippings. Dry clippings are much easier to remove than wet, caked-on grass. After a few minutes of running, turn the mower off and disconnect the spark plug wire for safety. Now you are ready for the first real cleaning step without working against a wet, messy undercarriage.
Tip 2: Give the Underside of the Deck a Thorough Cleaning
The area under the mower deck collects a surprising amount of grass. If you leave that layer of damp clippings on the metal, rust will form over the winter. Rust pits the surface of the deck, making it harder to clean next season and eventually leading to holes.
Use a putty knife or a deck cleaning tool to scrape off the built-up grass. Be careful not to gouge the paint. Many experts recommend tilting the mower so the carburetor side faces up. This prevents oil from leaking into the air filter. Scrape the underside thoroughly and then use a stiff brush to remove the remaining dust. A clean deck is a protected deck.
Tip 3: Wash the Rest of the Mower Body
Your mower collects dust, oil, and grass stains on the top and sides. While these might seem like cosmetic issues, they also hold moisture against the paint. A good wash protects the finish and prevents hidden corrosion.
Use a bucket of warm, soapy water and a soft rag or sponge. Avoid using a pressure washer on the engine area, as high-pressure water can force moisture into bearings and electrical connections. Instead, use a garden hose with a gentle spray if needed. Dry the entire mower with an old towel or let it sit in the sun for a few hours. Make sure the machine is completely dry before moving on to other storage steps.
Tip 4: Change the Engine Oil (Or at Least Check It)
Used engine oil contains acids and moisture that build up during operation. If you leave that dirty oil sitting in the crankcase for months, it can damage internal engine seals and bearings. Changing the oil before storage is one of the best things you can do for your engine.
Run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil, which helps it drain more completely. Then, remove the oil drain plug or use a siphon pump to remove the old oil. Refill with the correct viscosity of fresh oil recommended in your owner’s manual. Fresh oil contains corrosion inhibitors that protect the engine internals during long periods of inactivity.
Tip 5: Stabilize the Fuel or Drain the Tank Completely
Fuel-related issues are the number one reason why stored mowers will not start in the spring. Modern gasoline with ethanol absorbs moisture and begins to degrade rapidly. You have two good options for dealing with this problem.
The first option is to add a high-quality fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. Fill the tank with fresh gasoline, add the correct amount of stabilizer, and run the engine for five minutes to circulate the treated fuel through the carburetor. This coats the internal passages and prevents varnish formation.
The second option, and the safest for long-term storage, is to run the engine until the tank is completely empty and the engine stalls from lack of fuel. This removes all gasoline from the system, leaving nothing to degrade. This method eliminates the risk of gummed-up carburetors entirely.
Tip 6: Protect the Spark Plug
The spark plug is a critical starting component. A corroded or fouled plug can make starting very difficult after a long period of storage. A little preparation goes a long way here.
Remove the spark plug using a socket wrench. Inspect the electrode for wear. If the electrode is rounded or the ceramic is cracked, replace the plug with a new one. If the plug looks good, clean it lightly with a wire brush. Before reinserting the plug, pour a tablespoon of fresh engine oil into the cylinder. Pull the starter cord slowly a few times to coat the cylinder walls with oil. This prevents the piston rings from rusting to the cylinder wall. Reinstall the spark plug but do not connect the wire yet.
Tip 7: Service the Air Filter
A dirty air filter restricts airflow to the engine. This makes the mower run poorly and can cause hard starting. During storage, a damp, dirty filter can even grow mold.
Remove the air filter cover and take out the filter element. A paper filter should be tapped clean. If it is very dirty or damaged, replace it. A foam filter can be washed in warm soapy water, rinsed, and dried thoroughly. Once dry, apply a light coating of air filter oil. Reinstall the clean filter and secure the cover. This simple step ensures the engine breathes easily when you restart it.
Tip 8: Sharpen and Protect the Blade
A dull blade tears grass instead of cutting it. Leaving a blade exposed to moisture over the winter accelerates rust and dullness. End-of-season is the perfect time to sharpen the blade.
Remove the blade carefully, noting which side faces the ground. Use a file or a bench grinder to sharpen the cutting edge to the original angle. Balance the blade by hanging it on a nail or using a blade balancer. If one side is heavier, file it down until balanced. Apply a light coat of oil or WD-40 to the bare metal to prevent rust. Reinstall the blade tightly. A sharp blade gives you a manicured lawn from the very first mow of the new season.
Tip 9: Tend to the Battery (If Your Mower Has One)
Batteries discharge naturally over time. A lead-acid battery that sits dead for a few weeks can develop sulfation, which permanently reduces its capacity. A battery kept on a concrete floor is a myth for modern batteries, but temperature extremes are a real issue.
Clean the battery terminals with a wire brush and apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to prevent corrosion. Charge the battery fully. The best option is to connect a smart battery maintainer or trickle charger for the duration of the storage period. This device monitors the battery’s charge level and keeps it topped off without overcharging. If you cannot use a maintainer, remove the battery and store it in a cool, dry place. Recharge it every four to six weeks over the winter.
Tip 10: Lubricate Moving Parts and Cables
Cables and pivot points can rust or stiffen over a long period of inactivity. A little lubrication prevents this and ensures smooth operation next season.
Apply a light machine oil or a spray lubricant to all control cables where they enter the housings. Work the levers to distribute the oil. Lubricate the wheel axles, the height adjustment levers, and the linkage that moves the throttle or blade brake. Wipe off any excess oil so it does not attract dust. This maintenance keeps the controls feeling smooth and responsive.
Tip 11: Choose the Right Storage Location
Where you store the mower matters just as much as how you prepare it. A damp, leaky shed can undo all your hard work. The goal is to keep the mower as dry and stable as possible.
Store the mower in a garage, shed, or covered area that stays dry. Avoid placing it directly on a bare concrete floor, as concrete can wick moisture and cause condensation on the metal deck. If you must store it on concrete, place a sheet of plywood or a thick rubber mat under the mower. Cover the mower with a breathable mower cover or a light tarp. Avoid using plastic garbage bags, as they trap moisture and promote rust. Good airflow around the mower helps keep everything dry.
Tip 12: Check Tire Pressure and Protect the Tires
Lawn mower tires can lose pressure slowly over time. If the mower sits all winter on under-inflated tires, the sidewalls can develop flat spots. This can cause a rough ride when you start mowing again.
Inflate the tires to the pressure recommended on the sidewall before storing the machine. If you store the mower on dirt or grass, consider placing small pieces of wood or plastic tiles under the tires to prevent them from sinking into moisture. For pneumatic tires, this extra step prevents rot and flat spots. After inflation, give the tires a wipe down to remove any caked-on dirt.
Comparing Storage Priorities for Different Mower Types
Not every mower requires exactly the same storage steps. Gas-powered mowers need more fuel and engine preparation, while electric mowers have battery concerns. The table below summarizes the key differences.
Common Mistakes People Make When Storing Their Mower
Many people make a few predictable errors that cause problems later. Knowing these can help you avoid them.
Leaving the mower outside: Even under a tarp, the weather will take its toll. Moisture gets in, and animals can nest in the engine compartment. Always put the mower inside a dry structure.
Skipping the fuel step: This is the most common mistake. People assume the gas in the tank is fine. By spring, it becomes a sticky varnish that clogs the carburetor. Treating or emptying the fuel is essential.
Neglecting the oil change: The acids in old oil will etch bearing surfaces over months of disuse. Changing the oil is cheap insurance for the engine.
Storing on the ground: Placing the mower directly on dirt or damp grass exposes the underside to moisture. Use a paved surface or a pallet to keep the mower off the ground.
Forgetting the battery: Letting a battery drain completely is a fast way to ruin it. A simple trickle maintainer costs very little and saves the cost of a replacement battery.
How Seasonal Timing Changes Your Storage Approach
The length of your storage period changes what you need to do. Short-term storage between mows is different from winterizing for several months.
For short breaks of a week or two between regular mowing, you do not need to drain fuel or change oil. Simply clean the deck after the last mow and park the mower in a dry spot. The key is to keep the engine and deck free of wet grass that could cause rust quickly. If you know you will not mow for a month, add fuel stabilizer to the tank and run the engine for a few minutes to circulate it.
Long-term seasonal storage, which is typically three to six months over winter, requires the full preparation routine. That includes draining or stabilizing the fuel, changing the oil, protecting the battery, and sharpening the blade. The longer the mower sits, the more important every step becomes. A machine stored for six months with stale fuel and dirty oil will almost certainly need service before it runs again.
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Frequently Asked Questions About Lawn Mower Storage
Can I store my lawn mower in a shed that is not heated?
Yes, an unheated shed is generally fine as long as it remains dry. The important factor is keeping the mower away from direct exposure to rain and snow. Temperature swings themselves are less damaging than moisture. Ensure the shed has some airflow to prevent condensation. Placing the mower on a pallet or a rubber mat can help insulate it from cold ground temperatures.
Do I need to remove the battery from my riding mower for winter?
It is a good practice to remove the battery if you cannot connect it to a maintainer. A battery that sits in a freezing garage without a charge can freeze and crack. Storing the battery in a cool, dry place like a basement is ideal. If you use a smart charger, you can leave the battery in the mower as long as the charger is connected and working.
How long can gasoline sit in a lawn mower before it goes bad?
Untreated gasoline with ethanol starts to degrade significantly within 30 days. After 60 to 90 days, it can form varnish and gum that clogs the carburetor. Gasoline without ethanol can last a bit longer, perhaps two to three months. If you use a fuel stabilizer, treated gasoline remains usable for up to six months or longer. This is why fuel preparation is a crucial part of any effective lawn mower storage guide.
Is it okay to pressure wash my lawn mower before storing it?
It is best to avoid pressure washing the engine area. High-pressure water can force moisture into the carburetor, air filter, electrical connections, and wheel bearings. A garden hose with a gentle spray or a bucket of soapy water and a sponge is much safer for cleaning the body. You can use a pressure washer on the metal deck underside if you are careful to keep the spray away from the engine and belts.
Should I store my mower with the gas tank full or empty?
Either method works if done correctly. Storing with a full tank of treated fuel prevents air and moisture from entering the tank. Storing with an empty tank eliminates the fuel degradation problem entirely. The empty tank method is the safest for long-term storage of six months or more, as it leaves nothing inside to cause problems. Just remember to run the engine until it stalls to empty the carburetor as well.
Conclusion
Taking the time to store your lawn mower properly is a small effort that yields big rewards. You save money on repairs, avoid the frustration of a machine that will not start, and extend the usable life of your equipment by several years. Each of the twelve tips addresses a specific risk, from fuel varnish to rust to dead batteries.
The best approach is to make storage preparation part of your regular seasonal routine. When you finish the last mow of the year, spend an hour going through these steps. Your future self, enjoying a perfectly manicured lawn in the spring, will thank you. A well-stored mower is a reliable mower, and a reliable mower makes lawn care much easier.
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